How big should a table runner be?

Hi all!

I’m back after 2 months of non-FF blogging. I’ve been out and about blogging for other pages/sites (list at the bottom), plus I’ve had markets and shows, birthdays, custom orders and Easter in amongst all that too…

I’m here with something that always crops up – especially when I am asked to make table runners for the magazines is what size…

Now this is a question that’s a bit like “How long is a piece of string?” because everyone has a different table or needs a different type of runner for their needs.

So there are some suggestions for making a table runner that I’ve come across in my internet searching –

1. A table runner averages 14 to 17 inches wide.

2. Martha Stewart says to make it as wide as you think looks good, and they should hang down 18 inches at the most.

3. Some suggest that a table runner should be one-third the width of your table.

3. Pick the length and width that look right for your table. If you are unsure make a mock up of the size with paper or spare length of fabric.

4. Table runners run down the middle of a formal dining table. Short runners should hang at least 12 inches off the end of the table on both sides.

 

Now if that all seems a bit too much to take in just have a look at your dining table and do what feels/looks right to you. Mine is a 6-seater and measures 104cm x 180cm, because of it’s size I would normally make a runner that measures 30 – 35cm wide and 120 – 135cm long. This is sticking to rule #3 of a third of the width of the table and brings the length in enough so that a placemat will fit comfortably at either end of the table. BUT it all depends on the design I’m working on – I may need to adjust the size a bit to allow for firstly metric to imperial conversion and then the block I’m making or the strips I’m cutting. Play around with designs and see what happens – remember graph paper is your friend.

I don’t like things hanging off my table so when I make a runner for my table I make it so it’s more like a table topper – a giant placemat for the centre of the table, so that the placemats sit at the same level around the runner on top of a plain tablecloth (or none at all).

Sand Sun & Sky

I’ve just finished making a table runner for a magazine commission – it’s a long runner – 1.8m which is the length of some tables (my market trestle tables are this size for example) and 1.8m is a good size if you have either a large table (8-seater) and want to pop placemats all the way around or have a small table and want the runner to drape off the ends.

Charming Christmas

Like every craft project out there on the net and in every book and magazine you’ve ever read there are specific sizes for things, standards that the industry has put in place for consistency  (like mattresses for example – single bed etc) but like anything it is open to interpretation. Make your runner to suit your dining table, coffee table, side tables and even bedside tables – wherever there is a need for something to sit make a runner or mat for it to sit on.

556_1393559548

Rockabilly Runner

 

This is what I was doing in all that time I was away from here…

http://www.bespokezine.com/2014/03/quilting-design-process/

http://www.bespokezine.com/2014/03/colour-your-life/

http://www.bespokezine.com/2014/03/buying-fabric/

http://www.bespokezine.com/2014/03/my-crafting-companion/

http://www.bespokezine.com/2014/03/patchwork-basic-calculations-and-accuracy/

http://www.bespokezine.com/2014/03/diy-placemat/

 

Marni x

Creative musings…

I am not a morning person and will probably never be one. Ever.

Sure I can get into the routine of getting up and going to work, and maintain such a routine but I don’t like it and it has repercussions on my mind and body. When I’m up early (early for me anyway) I actually feel ill. Eating before 10am is a problem because my stomach hasn’t caught up with the rest of my body being awake and just can’t process anything. I’m no good mentally until midday without coffee or a can of some sticky stimulant drink (and that has its own issues). So I crave a life that lets me be free to wander nocturnally and still pay the bills.

I am at my most creative in the dark. In the middle of the night when the world is asleep, the cars have stopped rushing past my bedroom window and silence descends upon everything the darkness touches, I am awake and ready to design, create and make. I’ve never really understood why this is the way my brain works but have just accepted it and moved on. I have read a few things about creative types being more likely to be up all hours so there must be something scientific and chemical behind it.

I like being awake when no-one else is. It’s soothing to me for some reason, I get more done and there are no distractions. The down side for me is that I can’t run my machine at all hours of the night because it is noisy. So I spend the time drawing new designs, writing patterns and cutting up the next quilt. I love to do all the little ‘process’ jobs that come before the actually assembly of a quilt at night. These smaller steps are the ones that many struggle with – first concept through to execution – because getting started is hard. So for me its easier to do at the best time for me, at night, opening my mind to the quiet of the world and just let the inspiration pour through me.

Daylight hours are for work. The hard stuff, the physical, the things that need to be seen clearly and with lots of light shining on every detail. Night is for freedom of thought, dreaming and wondering what if.

The past couple of nights have been late ones for me going to bed well after 2am. I spend some time in my office, sketching and colouring in, dreaming up all sorts of things. Then I head to bed and read for a little while and then when the burn starts in my eyes I sleep.

I’m in the middle of lots of magazine commissions – quilts, wall hangings, table runners, softies and a bit of jewellery. So sketching is a great way for me to get the designs out of my head and tweak them as needed. Nothing works better than graph paper and a pencil, with a really good eraser and a ruler. I keep my set of colouring pencils handy for when I design things with lots of fabrics that way I can mark out each fabric with a colour and get a better view of what I’m thinking. Drawing these things helps me to clarify my design. Even though I have already visualised the finished project in my mind I work backwards deconstructing the piece into its components and then I can work out how to rebuild it and write notes for it so you can make your own versions.

My world is full of colour. I love it, dream it, mix it and match it. My bedroom and craft room are full of colourful clutter because that is what inspires me. I could never design in an office that was all white, with clean lines and everything in its place and so very neat. My design method is entropic. Chaos and colour all rolled into one brain. I wouldn’t have it any other way.

Many people ask me how I come up with so many things all the time. My answer is because my brain never stops. I walk around like a normal person all the while my brain is chugging along at the back designing, calculating and dreaming up new things. I can be having a conversation with someone and can literally feel my brain working in the background. If I stopped I think my world would stop, my life would stop and I wouldn’t be me.

I wouldn’t have my creativity any other way. I enjoy what I do, it makes me who I am and it makes me happy. I am so grateful to have found my life’s passion at such an early stage in my life.

How do you create? Design? Are you a morning or night person

 

Machine cleaning basics

Machine Maintenance

Did you know how important it is to have your machine regularly serviced? It’s like having your car serviced – vital, so as to insure good working order and to extend the life of your machine.
So this brief tutorial has a few things you can do to help your machine’s performance and your sewing stay true to your skills.
1. Use the right tools – Make sure you have the correct screwdriver, oil, tweezers, can of air and small brushes.
The right stuff - Can of air from Officeworks $2.50

The right stuff – Can of air from Officeworks $2.50

2. Turn all the power off and unplug all the cords. Safety first.


3. Unthread the machine and remove the bobbin.
Untitled2

4. Take your time and make sure you don’t lose any screws you remove, making sure you keep an eye on what screw came from where and the various sizes.

5. Don’t use oil on your machine unless you know that it needs it. Many machines these days don’t require oiling as they are made from different materials/parts than machines that do need a bit of oil.

6. Make sure that the dust and other particles you clean out of your machine are thrown out. A common bit of debris found inside machines are broken needle tips, which can be a hazard.

7. Put the machine back together and test sew to make sure everything is okay. Adjust tensions and rethread as necessary.

8. To prevent any disasters with your machine plug it into a power board with a surge protector. And when travelling with your machine make sure it’s stored in a suitable box/bag/trolley and that your machine’s pressure foot is in the down position.

Take off the storage tray.

Take off the storage tray.

Remove the needle and foot including the shank.

Remove the needle and foot including the shank.

Unscrew the faceplate.

Unscrew the faceplate.

Remove faceplate.

Remove faceplate.

Remove bobbin case.

Remove bobbin case.

Lie machine on its back.

Lie machine on its back.

Unscrew the cover plate.

Unscrew the cover plate.

Remove cover plate.

Remove cover plate.

Attach the nozzle on your can of air and blow the dust away!

Attach the nozzle on your can of air and blow the dust away!

Use tweezers to remove any clumps of dust that are stuck.

Use tweezers to remove any clumps of dust that are stuck.

Dust!

Dust!

Turn the machine back up and use a small brush to remove any more dust you can see.

Turn the machine back up and use a small brush to remove any more dust you can see.

Oil any spots that require it or that your machine manual advises to.  DO NOT oil if your machine doesn't need it.

Oil any spots that require it or that your machine manual advises to.
DO NOT oil if your machine doesn’t need it.

Lie the machine back down and reattach the cover plate.

Lie the machine back down and reattach the cover plate.

Put the machine back up. Dust out the bobbin case (front and back)

Put the machine back up. Dust out the bobbin case (front and back)

Put the bobbin case back into position.

Put the bobbin case back into position.

Screw the faceplate back on, return the needle and foot/shank  back to their rightful homes.

Screw the faceplate back on, return the needle and foot/shank
back to their rightful homes.

Pop the storage tray back on. Rethread the machine, power up and  test your stitches and tension. Then back to work!

Pop the storage tray back on. Rethread the machine, power up and
test your stitches and tension.
Then back to work!

NOTE: This tip in no way replaces the need for you to have your machine serviced yearly. There are things that a mechanic will check that you cannot do yourself.